Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Hypermiling - A beginner's guide to eco-driving

Hyper-miling is the North American version of Eco-driving, which essentially involves driving better to use less fuel.  It is a practice where car owners can routinely exceed their vehicles rated fuel economy through the use of their skill and common techniques.  These techniques can be employed safely to effectively reduce the cost and environmental impact of driving while still allowing the driver to travel effectively.


Hyper-miling acknowledges a spectrum of driving ability, attitudes, conditions and vehicles.  The people involved vary from folks who don't want to pay more than they have to for gas, to hyper milers who modify their vehicles, route, habits, and fuel in order to achieve astounding mileages like 100 mpg, all the way to irresponsible idiots who tailgate big rigs and drive dangerously while inconveniencing other drivers.

It not only involves using less fuel, it can also involve driving less, and even transforming the traffic around you using techniques like traffic smoothing, wave cancellation, and defusing aggressive driving.  It all depends how seriously you want to be about your driving.


Maintenance:
  • Use a lower viscosity engine oil like a 5W30 (or 0W30)  instead of a 10W30
  • Inflate your tires to the recommended inflation (or a tiny bit more)
  • Consider purchasing harder tires when replacing them.
  • Remove dead weight from your car's trunk. (golf clubs, sand bags, lumber)
  • Clean air filter
  • Clean spark plugs
  • Use a fuel additive to clean your car's fuel injectors (read the ingredients, the less expensive and more expensive additives may be the same)
  • (Some additives may also help improve your car's combustion efficiency)


Aerodynamics
Reduce your vehicles drag so it slips through the air more smoothly.  The more "slippery" your vehicle is, the less energy you will spend "fighting the wind"
  • Keep windows up
  • Remove roof rack, roof top carrier and bike racks when not in use
  • Reduce your top speed to reduce wind resistance. 


Strategy
It is a game, a puzzle, a challenge.  Information can give you an advantage.  Thinking about your approach and keeping your goal in mind can help you do better.
  • Avoid unnecessary elevation gain
  • Parking with Potential   (park facing downhill where you can take advantage of any elevation gain in the parking lot to get going.
  • Parking to pull-through  (reversing out of parking spots, braking and pulling forward wastes more energy)
  • Avoiding unnecessary traffic lights and other "stops". (fewest number of traffic lights, less populated areas)
  • Using routing software like maps.google.com to confirm the most direct route
  • Purchase a real-time fuel economy gauge so you can "see" how well you are driving.
  • Combine errands to reduce unnecessary driving around town.
  • Create a carpool that works for you.
Driving skill and style
By consciously altering your driving style and building skill, you will reduce your fuel costs through;
  • Do not accelerate quickly or brake heavily: This reduces fuel economy by as much as 33 percent at highway speeds and 5 percent around town
  • Anticipate what is coming.  Be looking ahead to watch traffic, pedestrians, traffic lights.
  • Timing lights and smart braking (continue slowing before you actually stop until the light changes to green and you can re-accelerate without having to do so from a stop.)
  • Using the Pulse and glide technique
  • Driving with buffers (driving without brakes)
  • Coasting in neutral (While coasting you might get as high as 131 MPG (US) )
  • Idling in Neutral (You idle anyways, why not idle so you use less gas?)
  • Avoiding Idling (At gas station line-ups, drive-thrus, train crossings and long lights you will use more fuel idling than you will turning your car off and re-starting)
  • Minimizing AC use (A car idling with AC on will use 1.7 Litres per hour, but a car idling with no AC will only use 1.2 Litres per hour)
  • Maintaining (more) speed in corners.
  • Driving with Load (rather than focusing on maintaining a constant speed, maintain a constant load on your car.  As you climb a hill, you lose some speed but keep the engine at a constant load)
  • Smoothing out stop and go traffic (act as a shock absorber in rough traffic to improve safety, traffic flow and fuel economy).
  • Do not use 4-wheel drive if it is not needed. 4-Wheel drive reduces fuel economy.
  • Driving without shoes (to get a better feel for your throttle)
  • Invest in a real-time mileage gauge like a ScanGauge II
    (shop around for the best price)
Here is a Link to Amazon where you can purchase the ScanGaugeII if you are looking for one.

So this is really more of an appetizer plate to whet your appetite, to peak your curiosity, and to extend an initial invitation to the world of hyper-miling.  Come, join me.  I pay slightly less for gas but still get where I'm going in the same amount of time.  Got some questions?  Check out the links above, and post your questions in the comments below where everybody can benefit from the answers.

Happy Hyper-miling,
Greg.

5 comments:

  1. Oil viscosity: good advice for new cars. However, in older cars (12-15+), seals aren't as good as they used to be, and the higher viscosity oil compensates. Saving a few dollars on gas isn't worth an expensive engine repair.

    Tire inflation: Excessive tire inflation increases mileage by reducing friction as the centre of the tire bulges out and lifts the outside edges of the tire off the ground. This flip side of this, is that the same friction is what allows you to corner and brake (and accelerate, which is sometimes the solution to avoiding an accident). Fill your tires to the manufacturer's recommended psi, *not* what's on the tire, they don't take into effect the load of the vehicle. Check your owner's manual, or a placard on the door frame.

    Also, ICBC recommends not coasting in neutral, or even stopping in neutral. The idea being that if you are rear ended, the car will possibly stall out and stop (for manuals). I def stop in neutral, but I don't coast in it. You maintain better control of the car while it is in gear.

    Routes: shortest vs. fastest. Sometimes google recommends routes that I know are heavy in traffic, and I'll burn more fuel in stop and go than I will just going around (Kingsway before 10pm comes to mind).

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  2. Just beware of the tradeoffs you are making. Some of these techniques will make you a safer driver too, while others will make you more dangerous. Overinflating tires costs traction, as do harder tires. You can buy a lot of gas for the price of even the most minor fender bender.

    Other techniques (such as coasting in neutral) can be illegal - depending on your jurisdiction. For example, in BC it is illegal to coast down a grade with your vehicle in neutral or the clutch disengaged. Likewise, driving without shoes.

    I was thinking just the other day about what single thing would best improve my gas milage. Traditional real-time fuel economy guages show how much gas is being burned at any given time, but make it difficult to see the overall picture. The "average" covers too much time, and the instantaneous doesn't help with route planning, or deciding how hard and long to accelerate.

    What I'd want is a dollar guage. Something I could adjust to the current price of gas, and would tick up on a per trip basis. Then I'd know that my trip to the mall cost me $3.25, or that I just spent $1.17 racing the idiot in the SUV from the light. Shouldn't be hard to do with OBD and a bit of coding.

    My 2 cents.

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  3. @Anonynmous: Thanks for your comments! Regarding the "dollar gauge" that gives you a per-trip price. The ScanGaugeII does that for you. Everytime you fill up it asks the current price for gas, then it will tell you in realtime the cost per kilometer according to current consumption. BUT also under the trip settings for "current","today","yesterday","tank" it will tell you the cost of the gas you used. I find it quite alarming to start off, drive a few blocks and see how many cents it cost me to drive that far. I recommend the gauge, I find it quite helpful.

    Greg.

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  4. @Altimeter: I like your comments about oil viscosity and older cars. Also I've experienced your comment about tire inflation, reducing friction. I just replaced my tires this year and had been inflating them to the inflation posted on the tire, only to have the tire tech tell me I'd had them "under" inflated. I didn't expect that, I thought I had "over" inflated them. You are right with following the recommendation, under inflated tires under perform in the same manner that over inflated tires underperform.

    I keep hearing people quoting law about coasting in neutral, but I wonder what the basis for the law is. Is it that with carburated cars we grew to rely on the compression as part of our braking and shifting into neutral removed that surprising people and having them brake too late? I doubt that it is so we can "accelerate out of trouble" I'd say it's 1000 times to 1 that I find the brakes saving me rather than the accelerator. Is it because in a manual, there is a much greater chance of not being able to get the car "back in gear" as the car accelerates down a grade? Personally I haven't noticed any reduction in control. (power brakes and power steering still work etc.) I'm wondering if we have some out of date laws here? This may be right, but I'm just saying I don't understand WHY we have those laws. ?? Ideas?

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  5. I suspect there are 2 reasons for the leaving a car in neutral on a grade.

    1) If anything goes wrong getting it back INTO gear, you are now relying on only your brakes to slow down. There is no engine braking. Burn out the brakes, and you're flying.

    2) Try doing a slalom course in your car in neutral and in gear. Having a vehicle in gear gives you more control over its handling. Swerving around something on the highway in neutral just isn't as safe.

    The biggest bang for your buck is in maintaining your vehicle. Tune ups, clean filters, fresh oil. Actually, "not driving like an idiot" would probably be the biggest. The little stuff helps get the last couple of .1 mpg, but right now 99% of the population is pissing away the big returns that sane driving would get them.

    A carpool doubles your mpg. That's tough to beat too. :)

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